Learning to Surf: Bucketlist item #38 CHECK…

My one and only surfing lesson…

Not often does someone know that the first time they ever try something will probably be their last. But I can assure you I am no surfer in the making. I am very proud of myself for trying and my instructors – Sierra and her boyfriend pro surfer Evan – are both awesome people, but it was a one shot deal. At the very least never to be attempted in the cold pacific ocean. Maybe in a non-wave warm Florida Gulf (hehe).

Anyway I  learned some of the lingo, of course there are many in TN who think I only speak California/surfer lingo, the day before. I learned it when we got to Seal Beach ready to surf and there was a yellow sign with a big black ball in the middle of it which apparently signifies no surfing allowed at that time. We originally were going to surf in Newport Beach, but there was a sewage spill and the waves were way to big for me in Huntington Beach.

I have to be honest I felt relieved. I had made the attempt and couldn’t help that I wasn’t allowed, right? So instead we had the Surfer’s Special at El Burrito Jr #2. It was delicious. Huge burritos and a drink for under $5. Melina was with us on this first day attempt although she was not able to go the following day when we tried again. So we just all sat in the sun with the ocean view and enjoyed our comfort food. Perfect!

The next day the kids came and got me about noon. After all the real surfers were done until evening. I thought this was a very smart idea. And we headed for Huntington Beach. I am actually glad that this is where we were able to get in the water finally because this is where I consider home.

First off learning how to put on a wet suit. Not a comfortable outfit by any means. Especially for someone who can’t even wear turtle necks, because I don’t like anything at all around my neck. It is a chore to get one of these on. But once it was on I think I looked quite cute. I know, I know it is for warmth not fashion! After the suits were put on by the Jeep we grabbed the board and headed to the ocean. Evan brought his dad’s long board. It is massive.

With camera in hand Evan was ready to take pictures of Sierra giving me a lesson on how to surf on the sand. I must admit I am a MUCH better couch and sand surfer than wave surfer. I caught on pretty quick if I do say so myself, which I do. I love the fluid motion of going from paddling to actually getting up on your knees then to your feet. It is so graceful. I love to watch real surfers do this. For me it is like watching poetry of motion. Nature and surfer working in sync.

After a few successful stands on the sand we, Sierra and I, headed into the water. I cannot believe how warm the wet suit kept me. Great! I really loved paddling out. I’m actually quite good at it too. After a few pictures, Evan got into the water too *he left my camera with a very nice family on the beach to watch*. He was behind me, but I was so busy paddling out and being proud of myself and feeling so good out there that I went way to far ahead of him and way to far out. That was my down fall.

Sierra came up behind me treading water. Evan got there too and began treading. He is not used to having to tread water as much and got very tired. Sierra is a swimmer so she was faring a bit better. She held the board while I was getting ready to catch a wave. I couldn’t really tell when a wave was coming so she was watching for me. The first one she said to go on I paddled with the wave then got up on my knees when she told me but was a bit to slow and miss the wave so I just rode that one on my knees.

Then the next one!!!! ACK! She again held the board and told me when to start paddling with the wave (mind you we are out a bit further than I needed to be). I paddled and got up when she told me to. I made it all the way to standing before the board went out from under me –  sideways. The board made it safely to shore within seconds. Me? Not so much.

I was thrown to the ocean bottom with my mouth open. When I finally, it seemed like an eternity, broke the top of the water and saw Sierra I couldn’t get a breath in at all. I kinda panicked. Here I have to say that Evan and Sierra were absolutely amazing. They were both encouraging and calm with me.

Evan later told me he didn’t realize at first how badly I was panicked until he saw my eyes. They swam on either side of me just talking me thru. At one point Evan reminded me that I needed to actually swim and not just tread water. And he demonstrated just to jar me. It was needed.

We laughed a lot about it later, but it seemed like I swam for miles when actually it was nowhere near that dramatic. Evan commented repeatedly how choppy the water was. Ends up there was a 5.4 earthquake in the area as I was “surfing”. Great timing, Stacy!!!

So after I was FINALLY back on land I sat my happy self down for a bit of reflection ( oh and to try to start breathing again ) and decided that I was proud of myself for trying. I have two great death fears in my life, well three cause I don’t much want to be tortured either, and they are fire and drowning. So, even though I have a fear of drowning, I tried to do something I’ve always admired others can do so gracefully….surf! GO ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!